Monday, March 3, 2014

Rio during Carnaval!


Expensive! Colorful! Crazy!

I was utterly confused before Carnival, because I did not understand what happened nor know anyone that could provide recommendations/clarity. What I found was an excited city that was somehow tamer than I expected. I had been warned that traffic is terrible, ATMs run out of cash, everything is closed, you cannot walk around and everything is very expensive. What I discovered is that traffic is fine, ATMs have plenty of cash, most things are open, it is only super busy at the street parties and the only things that are really expensive are housing [extremely] and the normal tourist traps.

The street parties are simply that, parties in the street. They are exclusive to a specific block and people dress up, drink and sometimes dance. The street parties can get crazy; however, they only last a few hours at most. Then they move to a new location and start again. Finding these parties is more challenging without insider knowledge and there is very little inter-nationality mingling. Everyone finds someone speaking his/her language and sticks with them.

Sambadrome is the collective parade of Carnival. This costume extravaganza is what most people envision when thinking about Carnival. While everyone thinks of the girls in virtually no clothes dancing, ironically, they are the minority. I would guess for every one “famous” barely-clothed dancer there are 50 other full-costume dancers. All night the samba schools dance (they do not walk) in the parade—thousands upon thousands upon thousands. Sambadrome is BY FAR the greatest parade I have ever experienced or seen (and I viewed the Rose Parade from the grandstands last year). Sambadrome is also the only reason I would recommend visiting Rio during Carnival—it is that spectacular!




Went to another soccer match--this time in Brazil.

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Iguaçu Falls (+ 1st Helicopter Flight) – Argentina & Brazil


The helicopter tilted and was propelled forward towards the trees in front of us. I could not stop myself from almost giggling because the sensation felt like riding on a roller coaster. We ascended over the trees, turned and headed toward Iguaçu Falls.

You could see the steam rising up over the landscape before actually seeing the falls. Once in view though, no one could take their eyes off them. While on the ground, you can gauge the scale, but when you are in the air, the enormity of the falls really hits home. From most views, rainbows provide extra color and character to the already spectacular images. As we circled around Iguaçu, audible gasps were heard every few seconds from the helicopter. The views were special and I chose a great place for my first helicopter ride.

The Brazilian and Argentinian sides of the falls are different and both important to fully experience the waterfalls. The Argentinian side is more of an experience; whereas, the Brazilian has a few of the elite views in the world. Both are great, but each are different.

Falls from Argentina side

Falls from Argentina side

Falls from the Argentina side



Summer storm

Summer storm in Argentina

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Tango & Soccer in Buenos Aires


I flew from Ushuaia (the southern most city in the world) to Buenos Aires. Although flying and taking a bus were the same price, the flight took 3 hours versus the bus taking 36 hours—36 straight hours in 2 different buses…that’s just crazy!!

Tango originated in Buenos Aires and the Argentinian soccer fans are notoriously crazy. On my second night, I went to a tango lesson followed by a tango show with bottomless Argentinian wine—which was convenient because I was coerced into joining the production. I was “selected” to be the guy the female dancers were cheating with. Although I was completely confused, the crowd seemed to like that I was always a half step behind my partner. Tango is everywhere in Buenos Aires and a must see if you come.


A few of us decided to go to an Argentinian soccer match. As the taxi pulled up to the stadium, the driver (we had no idea he spoke English) turned around and said, “No watches, no cell phones, no cameras, no money! Be careful!” Up to that point we were not super nervous. However, after thanking him, exiting the cab, and seeing the riot police completely surrounding the stadium, our nerves began activating. Halfway through the first half, the skies opened, it started pouring and the already raucous crowd became even crazier. Luckily, “our” team won 2-1 and the crowd was quite jovial on the way out.


Ushuaia, Argentina

Snowball fight in Ushuaia



Exploring in Ushuaia

Getting lost in Ushuaia

Saturday, January 25, 2014

The W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine National Park

I was nervous as I assembled all my gear into my pack. For the first time in my life, I was embarking on a trek without the help or guidance of anyone else—no porters, no guides, no one. I repacked my backpack at least four times to get the best weight distribution I could conceive. My sleeping bag, cooking gear and food remained near the bottom; however, certain items (like my roll mat and tent) had to be attached to the outside because there was no extra internal space. The entire assembly weighed at least 30 pounds and I had to carry the full pack for more than 25 miles over the following few days (with an extra 25 miles without the full pack).

I arrived to the park at 5:30 pm and reached the Torres campsite at 7:20pm. I was planning on ascending to the famous Towers on that first night; however, the trail had been closed due to weather—not an ideal situation considering that increased my distance for Day 2. The first night was cold...bitterly cold. Although I entered my tent and sleeping bag fairly early, I did not fall asleep until after sunrise (5:30am the following morning). I flickered in and out of sleep after 5:30 until I got out of the my sleeping bag at 7:30.

As I worked my way to the Towers lookout on Day 2, dark clouds hung in the sky and snow gently fell around me. I reached the Towers and curled up behind a massive boulder that provided a little shelter from the wind and cold as I waited (and hoped) for the clouds to clear. On two separate occasions, the clouds parted enough to see about 60% of the towers; however, after the clouds rolled back in the second time, I knew I had to leave. There was a long journey ahead (all with my full backpack) and I needed to start. About 5 kilometers from the 2nd campsite and my sleeping location, the pack started to hurt—my shoulders were tired and a rash had started forming on my lower back where the strap had been rubbing all day. Immediately after arriving, I set up my tent, grabbed my cooking gear, cooked dinner, and returned back into my tent. I really regret not being able to socialize in the camps; however, the cold was absolutely unbearable after about 7:30pm and if you were not in your tent, trying to sleep, you might not get to sleep until morning when the temperature rose again.

Day 3 was brilliantly clear in every direction—blue skies, fluffy white clouds, epic! The weather, while amazing, provided an inconvenient question. My view of the towers on Day 2 (the most iconic part of Torres del Paine) was inhibited by clouds, so I had to decide if I wanted to rush and finish the W trek in two days (allowing me to complete the Towers walk a second time on Day 4). I reached the middle lookout after 1.5 hours and while enjoying the scenery, decided to attempt finishing the hike that day. I raced back down to the basecamp, grabbed my gear and headed off towards the western campsite. I even ate my lunch of salami, cheese and crackers as I rushed the 7.5 kilometers, because the last ferry back across the lake departed at 6:30pm and I still had 15 kilometers even after dropping my gear at the western campsite. I somehow managed (painfully) to finish the trek that day and get back in time for the ferry.


The weather for Day 4, while not as perfect as Day 3, was far better than my first journey up that trail. My knees hurt badly (especially on the decent), but I am glad I did it. I might only be in Torres del Paine once in my life and I did not waste any opportunities to experience the exceptional National Park.

Starting the Trek 

Nearing the Towers on Day 2. Snow was starting to fall here.

The Towers in Torres del Paine

Hiking between Campsite Torres and Campsite Italiano


Rain starting to move in on the way to Campsite Italiano

Trekking around Refugio Cuernos 

Trekking towards Campsite Italiano

Heading toward Britanico Viewpoint on Day 3

Heading toward Britanico Viewpoint on Day 3

Nearing Britanico Viewpoint on Day 3

View while trekking to Paine Grande. Notice the fire damage.

Another view of the trail from Campsite Italiano to Refugio Paine Grande

Nearing Refugio Paine Grande. This photo is looking back toward Campsite Italiano 

Finally able to see Refugio Paine Grande

Hiking towards Glacier Gray

Day 4: Torres Trail a second time. Blue skies this time though...

The Towers...the second time.

The campsite outside the park.

Map of the National Park