кирилиця! Ukraine!

Chernobyl

It is not very often when you can walk in a city that has been completely disserted—one that hours before it was emptied of all human life, it was live and bustling. People were told they could take one suitcase and would be returning to their homes shortly. However, the authorities knew they were never going to return—the situation was far more serious than what was being relayed. I was standing in Pripyat, the neighboring city to the Nuclear Power Plant Chernobyl. Pripyat had to be evacuated once the authorities realized the severity of the plant explosion on April 26, 1986. While the citizens of that city were never told the magnitude of the catastrophe, they were still forced to leave. As we were walking through the ruins of the city, in what had become an overgrowth of trees and brush, the yellow paint of the iconic Ferris wheel barely began to appear through the branches. As we maneuvered the narrow pathway, eventually, it opened up to the amusement park that was set to open days after the Chernobyl accident. All the rides had been constructed and were ready to be unveiled during May Day. Those debuts never occurred though. Here they sit, slowly being rotting away by time, serving as a reminder of a glamorous town that had been left in history due to simple human error.

It is an eerie feeling walking around a city that has been deserted—and a city that still has radioactive traces. While I will never return, I think it is good to visit once. We never know the challenges we are going to be faced with in the future, and subsequently, we do not know how we are going to handle each of those challenges. However, I believe any time we have opportunities to be reminded of difficult moments in history, we should take advantage. At some point in the future, if we are ever called to make a tough decision, we never know what memories are going to flood back. For that reason alone, I’m glad I went, but I never will go back to Chernobyl.

Reactor #4 at Chernobyl

Decisions are never black and white.

Pripyat City Sign

Countless tears have been shed here.

Lviv

Lviv was my first experience with Cyrillic. It is a humbling experience to look around and not even be able to pronounce a word—let alone try and translate it. Lviv is a city (and I feel Ukraine is a country) that is struggling to embrace Westernization while maintaining its identity away from the Soviet Union. Normally, the younger generation is a safer bet for at least being able to communicate with the basics; however, in Ukraine, English is a rarity. While I never expect any country to have to adapt to English speakers, I consistently felt like the leadership of Ukraine was intentionally keeping the country in the “darker” ages. The other former Soviet Union countries have put an emphasis on Western communication (which provides opportunities for tourism and business). Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, former Yugoslavia: they have all embraced English as a second language and personally, I believe more opportunities are awarded because of that fact.

Luck struck several times while in Lviv. The first time was after I had resolved to eating pizza for lunch one day (Pizza is the easiest, most universally accepted food EVER. Anytime I do not know what to order or I cannot read the menu, I choose pizza or spaghetti Bolognese). I was at the counter ordering (it was quite embarrassing actually) when a Polish girl (Barbara) came up to the counter to ask a question to the cashier. We quickly bonded over our confusion of Cyrillic and she asked if I wanted to join her group. Next thing I know, I am having lunch, sharing a drink and spending the afternoon with four students from Poland.

My Texas A&M shirt was a winner…again. There is a free piano in the city center of Lviv. My second and final night, I was walking around the center when I decided to buy an ice cream cone before wandering over to the piano. Unfortunately however, when I arrived, the piano had been covered in a glass box to protect it during the evening. Defeated, I turned around and was reenergized by an amazingly serene scene in front of me. Past the off-centered horse drawn carriage, was the main square with the massive clock tower. Because I was slightly outside the main square center, the perimeter buildings of the square provided a frame to the scene. I decided to stay in that spot, enjoying the view and my remaining ice cream. A few minutes later, a local Ukrainian (Ruslan—he had studied at New Mexico State [also the Aggies]) walked up and asked about Texas A&M. We talked briefly and he invited me out with his friends for drinks.

Advice: always bring clothing that might make connections with other people. While I was not in Lviv long, my memories of the city would be drastically different without the kindness and inclusiveness of strangers. Thanks “guys”!

Kiev

During my entire stay in Kiev (which was longer than normal due to my flight situation), I imagined living in a place similar to the city. There were beautiful buildings, not too many tourists, beaches inside the city center and ample green spaces. However, unless you know the language (or at least Russian), a guide is basically a requirement to truly experience the city. I have far more stories from Ukraine, but those stories will have to be shared in person—this entry is getting too long.

Relaxing on a beach in the Kiev city center

Poland: Europe's Texas

Auschwitz

As you walk through the hallways, the only sounds that you hear are the dull, rhythmic footsteps of people too overwhelmed to speak. The walls are lined with portraits of faces along with arrival dates and murder dates. Thousands of faces: men, women, children. As we are slowly drudging through the rooms and hallways, we unexpectedly enter the infamous room. You are warned by fellow backpackers prior to going but you can never prepare yourself for the shear scale. Piled above my head and extending all the way down the barracks room, an estimated two tons of solid hair. More tangible remains from the lives taken were upcoming as the group struggled into the subsequent rooms. Shoes: children’s shoes, adults’ shoes, piled in the thousands. Cookware: all the pots and pans that were brought by the victims, only to be sent back out by the Nazis. The suitcases: meticulously marked by people that thought they were being relocated when in actuality they were being transported to their death. At least 1.1 millions people were murdered here, many within hours of arrival. I never want to go back to Auschwitz. But it is important to be reminded of the horrors that we, humans, have committed against one another.

From George Santayana’s Reason in Common Sense, “those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” I guarantee, the emotions that you feel while walking in those rooms, courtyards, fields and gas chambers cannot be described and will never be forgotten.

Entering Auschwitz: "Labour makes you free"

Wroclaw

Wroclaw is a smaller, but very attractive university city with an untouristy feel. While the weather did not cooperate while I was there (it rained the entire time), the city was a very enjoyable stop on my way from Berlin to Krakow. I was in a string of “tourist” cities, so getting off the beaten track for awhile was a refreshing recovery opportunity. I met a student while strolling around and he made sure I saw the best view of the city before I left. It turns out, that view was from a restricted lookout in one of the university buildings—pretty cool. I am consistently amazed by how friendly people have been throughout this trip. It’s refreshing…and definitely appreciated.

Car show in Wroclaw

Japanese Gardens in Wroclaw

Krakow

Krakow is my favorite city in Europe so far. The people are fantastic, the food is excellent and inexpensive, the city is gorgeous and it is not overrun with tourists—not yet at least. I have a suspicion that within the next few years, the new “Eastern Europe” route is going to be Berlin => Prague => Budapest => Krakow. (Yes, I put Eastern Europe in quotes on purpose.) Almost everyone in the hostel extended their stay, and those that did not, could not do to other commitments.

My recommendation, experience Krakow soon, before it becomes the next Prague.

Wieliczka Salt Mines

Berlin (Wall)

I was walking down a road; looking to the right, it’s just like any other road: cars passing, pedestrians walking on the other side, buildings protruding from the ground. But when you look to the left, you see a reminder of a time not long ago—the Berlin Wall. While colored, decorated and painted today, this physical symbol was erected during a time when things weren’t as beautiful and free. With each passing step a new image appears on the wall, telling its own story: the author, the paint and the colors. Each individual brushstroke was intentionally drawn to convey a story and hopefully a lesson. It’s sad though, because the ground level of these images have frequently been marked over with graffiti. However, the basis of each of the drawings remains and the lessons and stories they try to teach or convey will hopefully always stay.

Berlin is an alternative city focused on identity. The city is constantly changing and evolving, and you can tell that its true identity has yet to be discovered. It’s an intriguing city and one that should definitely be added due to its sheer uniqueness and alternative scene. As it continues to morph and continues to change into whatever it is going to become, as a visitor you will consistently experience something different with each trip. The Iron Curtain has fallen, and Berlin, similar to so many other places is desperately trying to get away from the shadow of that curtain.

Sun setting over Berlin